Annuity vs. CD vs. Treasury: the safe-money trifecta | Track Retirement
Annuity, CD and Treasury displayed as three different savings options.
Annuities guide

Annuity vs. CD vs. Treasury: the safe-money trifecta

Three conservative places to park retirement money — backed in three different ways. Here's the apples-to-apples comparison in 2026.

MYGA annuities, CDs, and Treasurys are the three mainstream ways to earn a guaranteed fixed return on safe money — and on the surface they look almost interchangeable. They are not: each is backed, taxed, and accessed very differently, and those differences change the winner depending on your tax bracket and which account holds the money. This guide breaks down how each works, the real after-tax math, who each one is right for, and how to combine them.

What each product actually is

A multi-year guaranteed annuity (MYGA) is a fixed annuity from an insurance company that pays a set rate for a set term — typically three to ten years — with the interest growing tax-deferred until you take it out. Think of it as the insurance industry's version of a CD.

A certificate of deposit (CD) is a time deposit at a bank or credit union that pays a fixed rate for a fixed term, with principal insured up to $250,000 per depositor, per institution, per ownership category — by the FDIC at banks and by the NCUA at federally insured credit unions. It is the simplest of the three.

A Treasury is a debt security issued by the U.S. government — bills (under a year), notes (2–10 years), or bonds (20–30 years) — backed by the government's full faith and credit. You can buy them directly at TreasuryDirect.gov or through a brokerage. Treasurys held at a brokerage can be sold on the secondary market any business day; ones bought at TreasuryDirect must first be transferred to a bank or broker (after a 45-day hold) before they can be sold.

Side by side

MYGACDTreasury
Backed byInsurer + state guaranty assoc.FDIC (to limits)U.S. government (full faith & credit)
Tax on growthDeferred until withdrawalTaxed yearlyFederal yes; state-tax-free
LiquidityLow (surrender charges)Penalty for early withdrawalHigh (sell on secondary market)
Best accountTaxable, higher bracketShort horizon / FDIC needHigh-tax state; need liquidity
$100,000 in a 5-year MYGA vs a 5-year CD
$98,000$105,873$113,746$121,619$129,492 MYGA 5.75% after tax: $124,511 CD 4.4% after tax: $117,876 Year 0Year 5

Illustrative, 24% tax bracket, both lines after tax: $6,635 more over 5 years, almost all of it from the rate difference (5.75% vs 4.4%) rather than from deferral. The 4.4% CD leg is an assumed APY, not a quote; the FDIC all-institution average is 1.41%. A MYGA is an insurance contract, not FDIC-insured.

The tax angle decides a lot

Two products quoting the same rate can leave you with very different money once the IRS and your state are paid. That is why you should compare these on after-tax yield, not the headline number.

  • MYGA: tax-deferred compounding — strong in a taxable account and a meaningful bracket; the advantage disappears inside an IRA, which is already tax-deferred.
  • Treasury: interest is exempt from state income tax — a real edge in high-tax states, and one investors routinely overlook.
  • CD: simplest and FDIC-insured, but interest is fully taxable every year, even if you reinvest it.

A worked example: the after-tax horse race

Say you have $100,000 of safe money to lock up for five years, you live in a state with a 6% income tax, and you are in the 24% federal bracket. The yields below are hypothetical round numbers chosen to show the arithmetic, not current market rates — the October 2026 figures are in the table further down. Assume a 5-year CD at 4.4%, a 5-year Treasury at 4.1%, and a 5-year MYGA at 5.4%.

  • CD at 4.4%: interest is taxed federally and by the state, so your combined rate of about 30% knocks the 4.4% down to roughly 3.1% after tax — and you owe that tax each year as it accrues.
  • Treasury at 4.1%: the 6% state tax does not apply, so only the 24% federal bite matters. That leaves about 3.1% after tax as well — in fact a hair more than the CD (3.12% versus 3.08%), so the state-tax break more than closes the gap with the higher-stated CD.
  • MYGA at 5.4%: nothing is taxed until year five. The money compounds on the full 5.4%, growing to about $130,000. You owe ordinary income tax on the ~$30,000 gain only when you withdraw, so the after-tax growth is the highest of the three if you truly leave it alone.

The lesson: the CD's higher stated rate loses to the Treasury once you account for state tax, and the MYGA wins on raw after-tax growth — but only because you accepted five years of illiquidity to get it. Plug your own bracket, state rate, and term into the calculator above to see your numbers.

The three-product side-by-side

5-yr CD5-yr Treasury5-yr MYGA
Yield (October 2026)1.41% FDIC national avg (Oct. 19 table), which many banks beat5.02%5.59% avg; 6.30% top A- or better (effective annual yields, illustrative)*
FDIC / Treasury / state guaranty$250k FDICU.S. TreasuryIssuing insurer's claims-paying ability; state guaranty limits vary by state (commonly around $250k present value)
Federal taxYearly on interestYearly on interestDeferred until withdrawal
State taxYesNo (federal-only)Deferred
Early-exit penalty6–12 months interestMarket value (gain or loss)5%–10% surrender charge
CompoundingAnnual or monthlySemi-annual couponCredited daily or annually; quoted as an effective annual yield

*The highest published 5-year MYGA headline (a C+-rated carrier's 7.45%-then-6.45% simple-interest step schedule) works out to about 5.91% effective annual yield, and the leading A- or better product pays 6.30% effective (checked October 13, 2026) — compare effective yield, not the headline, against a CD's APY. CD figures are FDIC national deposit rates (an average across all insured institutions; top online banks pay well above it) and Treasury figures are constant-maturity par yields — the FDIC table dated October 19, 2026 and Treasury yields at the October 9, 2026 close. Rates change constantly — confirm current figures before relying on any spread. Guaranty coverage is a safety net, not a reason to buy: in most states it is illegal for an agent to present it as a selling point, and the limit varies by state.

The bracket-by-bracket winner

The right product depends on your marginal bracket and your account type (taxable, IRA, or Roth):

  • 22%+ bracket, taxable account: MYGA usually wins on after-tax yield when its rate is meaningfully above the CD's. In the example above it wins by about 0.8 point a year (3.90% vs. 3.08% after tax), and almost all of that comes from the higher rate; the deferral itself adds only about a tenth of a point a year over five years.
  • 22%+ bracket, high-state-tax (CA/NY/NJ) taxable: Treasury's state-tax exemption frequently catches up to the MYGA's pre-tax advantage — and it keeps your liquidity.
  • Any bracket, IRA/Roth account: neither the MYGA's deferral nor the Treasury's state-tax break matters here, so it is a straight trade: the MYGA's extra yield (about 0.6 to 1.3 points over the 5-year Treasury in the October 2026 snapshot) against the Treasury's zero credit risk, liquidity and lack of surrender charges.
  • Need liquidity within 1–2 years: a CD with a small early-withdrawal penalty almost always wins — the MYGA surrender charge is too punitive over short horizons.

Who each is right for — and who should skip it

Choose a CD if

You want the simplest, most bulletproof option for money you will need within a few years, you value FDIC insurance, and you do not want to think about secondary-market pricing. Skip it if you live in a high-tax state and could get a better after-tax result from a Treasury, or if you are locking money up for the long term in a taxable account where a MYGA would compound more efficiently.

Choose a Treasury if

You live in a high-income-tax state, you want the deepest possible liquidity, or you simply want the lowest credit risk available anywhere. Skip it inside a Roth only if you expect to need higher growth than a fixed instrument can offer — for safe money, the Treasury is hard to beat. The FINRA bond basics are worth a read before you buy individual issues.

Choose a MYGA if

You are in a meaningful tax bracket, you are investing in a taxable account, and you are confident you will not touch the money for the full term. Skip it if there is any real chance you will need the cash early, if you are buying inside an IRA, or if the issuing insurer is not highly rated. Annuities are state-regulated insurance products — the NAIC and your state insurance department are the authorities to check a carrier against.

Mistakes to avoid

  • Chasing the headline rate. A higher stated rate that is fully taxable can lose to a lower state-tax-free Treasury. Always compare after tax.
  • Putting needed cash in a MYGA. Surrender charges plus a possible pre-59½ IRS penalty can erase a year or more of interest if you exit early.
  • Overshooting FDIC limits. Bank deposits above $250,000 per depositor, per bank, per ownership category are uninsured. For MYGAs, buy from highly rated insurers and spread larger amounts across more than one carrier to reduce single-carrier risk; the state guaranty association is a capped backstop, not a coverage target.
  • Ignoring carrier strength on a MYGA. The guaranty association is a backstop, not a substitute for buying from an A-rated insurer in the first place.

The ladder version

For larger balances, build a multi-rung ladder and, on the MYGA rungs, spread the money across more than one highly rated insurer to reduce single-carrier risk — that is about not depending on one company, not about fitting under any coverage limit. A typical retiree ladder: 20% in CDs (1-yr), 30% in Treasuries (2–4 yr), 50% in MYGAs (5–7 yr). The CD rung covers near-term liquidity, the Treasuries cover credit-risk-free yield, and the MYGAs maximize after-tax compound growth for the long end.

Laddering also solves the reinvestment problem: as each rung matures, you reinvest at whatever rates prevail then, so you are never forced to lock your entire balance at a single moment's rate. It also makes it easy to keep each CD rung within FDIC limits.

Bottom line

CD for simple FDIC-insured short money, Treasury for liquidity and state-tax-free interest, MYGA for the best after-tax fixed growth on money you can leave alone. The right pick is an account-and-bracket decision, not just a rate — run your own numbers, check the carrier or institution, and match the product's liquidity to the date you will actually need the money.

Annuity vs. CD vs. Treasury — FAQs

MYGA, CD, or Treasury — which is best for safe money?

Use a CD for simple FDIC-insured short money, a Treasury for liquidity and state-tax-free interest, and a MYGA for the best after-tax fixed growth on money you can leave alone. It is an account-and-bracket decision, not just a rate decision.

How are they taxed differently?

CD interest is taxed every year; Treasury interest is federally taxable but exempt from state income tax; MYGA growth is tax-deferred until you withdraw it. The deferral and the state-tax break are why two products with the same headline rate can leave you with very different after-tax dollars.

Which one is most liquid?

Treasurys are most liquid because you can sell them on the secondary market any business day, followed by CDs with an early-withdrawal penalty, then MYGAs with multi-year surrender charges. Match the product's liquidity to the date you will actually need the cash.

Which is the safest?

Treasurys carry the full faith and credit of the U.S. government, CDs are FDIC-insured up to $250,000 per depositor per bank, and MYGAs rely on the insurer's claims-paying ability plus your state guaranty association. Stick to A-rated carriers.

Does the MYGA tax advantage disappear inside an IRA?

Yes. An IRA is already tax-deferred, so a MYGA's deferral adds nothing inside one — compare it there purely on rate, carrier strength, and liquidity, and a Treasury or CD often wins because it carries no credit risk or surrender charge.

What happens if I cash out a MYGA early?

You pay a surrender charge that typically starts around 5%–10% and declines each year, and if you are under 59½ the IRS generally adds a 10% penalty on the gains plus ordinary income tax. That combination is why a MYGA is wrong for money you might need within a few years.

Are brokered CDs and Treasurys safe to buy through my brokerage?

Yes. Brokered CDs from FDIC member banks keep the same $250,000 insurance, and Treasurys bought through a broker carry the same U.S. backing as those bought directly at TreasuryDirect.gov. Confirm the CD is from an FDIC-insured bank and watch that you are not concentrating above the limit at one institution.

Can I lose money on a Treasury?

You cannot lose money if you hold a Treasury to maturity — you get full face value back. You can lose money only if you sell before maturity after interest rates have risen, because the bond's market price falls; holding to maturity removes that risk entirely.

How do I split money across all three?

Many retirees ladder them: a short CD or T-bill rung for cash you may need soon, intermediate Treasurys for credit-risk-free yield, and a MYGA for the long end where tax-deferred compounding pays off. Remember that FDIC coverage and state guaranty coverage are each capped per institution, per person.

Sources we relied on

Primary sources for this guide

We cite primary regulatory, government, and industry sources. Every link below is a canonical authority page — no aggregators, no affiliate destinations.

  1. FINRA — Annuities
  2. U.S. SEC — Variable Annuities: What You Should Know
  3. NAIC — Annuity model regulations
  4. IRS Publication 575 — Pension and Annuity Income

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This guide was researched from primary sources, including the ones listed above, and drafted with the help of AI tools, then checked against those sources before publishing. It was last reviewed on and is updated quarterly. Read how we vet annuity carriers, our editorial policy, or our corrections policy.